Overall the boat trip was really exciting and something I've never really experienced before. There was a crew of six Hindu men, the group of 12 from Bingin, two french filmmakers named Diego and Sabrina making a documentary for Surfing the Nations, and the leader of StN who is Tom Bauer. Our boat was the biggest out of the six boats, which all together, there was about 90 people traveling. We got a lot of good waves, and not a whole lot of junk waves. We surfed a right on Nusa Lembagnon called Shipwrecks (which was so fun and about 4 ft Hawaiian), a left called Desert Point on Lombok, and two amazing lefts off of Sumbawa called Scar Reef and Supersucks.
First, desert point is the sickest left anyone as ever seen. It is a solid barrel and holds pretty big size. We surfed it a total of 4 times: the first time the tide was too high and it was really small and junky and fun for everyone. The second time it was absolutely awesome and people were getting really fun barrels and solid long rides. The third time (the next morning) was massive and scary. One set that got everyone inside was about 10 ft Hawaiian and sucking up off the reef so hard i was on dry reef. Then a huge wall of whitewater hit me. This happened multiple times. A lot of pros were out at Deserts that day and I was getting really frustrated because i was constantly getting licked and hitting the reef. But i made it out of some solid barrels. Such a good wave.
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After Deserts, we surfed a wave called Scar Reef which is a solid left reef break that gets pretty shallow on a low tide. It's pretty shifty and can also barrel pretty good. it was about 5 ft Hawaiian on the sets and pretty fun. I hit the reef really bad here and at scar reef the reef is really alive and sharp and i nearly killed myself. Haha.
Ok and my best session was at Supersucks. Such a sick wave and such an open barrel. I got about 4 massive stand up backside barrels. Plenty people broke the boards here and it was a heavy wave - and really, really shallow.
On the way back at desert point, our last session, it was overhead and super good. Jamie O'Brien was out surfing. I got a really, really deep and long grab rail barrel and another wave and then I was paddling back out and the lip of the wave landed on me and center and side fin plugs came out of the board that I bought here in Bali. My other board that i brought with me I cracked on of the fin plugs at Deserts the big day. So, now I'm getting my boards fixed for really cheap. STOKED!
Ok, besides the waves, we entered two villages. One village called Bongka Bongka and they went crazy. We gave out heaps of donations and bibles and when a suit case got opened the people went NUTS! One group basically had a riot and people with bloody noses and bruises and everything; let me remind you this is a small remote Muslim fishing village. They really wanted all the clothes and toys and stuff. We had a translator tell them about the Gospel and that was pretty awesome.
The other place was a really small island off of Lombok called Gili Air. We went on to the beach there and went to the families and handed out donations and bibles to them as well. that went much smoother. I met a little boy about ten years old named Ardi and i miss him very much. He took the time to get to know me and we bonded very well. That night we all had a huge bonfire and worship session on the beach and I danced around and talked with Ardi and a lot other children into the night.
Other than that, we ministered to our crew and any surfers we ran into. Wow that is long! Please pray for the movie premiere and the banquet and that some souls would be saved!
I'm doing pretty good - I need some nutritious food, though. Everyone is starting to get a bad cold. Since I don't get sick, I don't really worry. Haha.
I Love you all!
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